Petra Off the Beaten Track - Day 5

We went down for breakfast to find out what I feared most … Petra was closed due to the rain that had started coming down this morning. Sigh. Apparently the rain here is predictably unreliable and fast-changing - it comes and goes without warning. They have to close Petra during the rains because of flash floods. It just reopened yesterday after having to evacuate people last week, and in 2018 over 20 people were killed in Petra from flash floods.

Getting back to my room from breakfast, I received the best text from Jeremy, who hadn't left the breakfast room yet: "They're open. Let's go!" The rain had stopped and they assessed Petra as safe!

Petra is A LOT of walking/ hiking so only the marathon runners amongst us went for Round Two today. Greg is actually sick with a chest cold, and Kate has been too busy studying in college to build up her endurance.

The Siq is the dramatic entrance to the ancient Nabatean city of Petra. The narrow, winding gorge is approximately 3/4 miles and ends at Petra's most elaborate ruin, Al Khazneh (the Treasury).

The Siq is the narrow gorge that winds its way to the Treasury

I would absolutely recommend that you start your Petra experience at the main entrance and walk through the Siq. Your first view of the Treasury is stunning and unforgettable.

From the very little bit of rain we had, there was a decent stream still running past the Treasury when we got there.

We were on our way to the "difficult" Al Khubtha trail for its views down to the Treasury. The path starts just past the old theater (on your left) and at the end of the Royal Tombs (on your right) - go up the wide trail to the right that takes you to the start of the stairs.

If you pass this sign after the Royal Tombs, you're going the right way 

The shop owner from the top of Al Khubtha trail passed us on his donkey at the start of the trail, saying we had 40 minutes to go. It is a good estimate but we took 48 minutes with all of our photo stops.

From (near) the top of Al Khubtha trail you can see the whole valley of Petra.

At the top of the stairs is a sign. You're on your own from here! The sign tells you to go straight but the rock on the ground in front of the little cave house has an arrow pointing left to stairs. Whichever way you pick, just go down. 

 You're looking for the tent/shop, where if you buy something, you can enjoy the view!

You can only get to the edge to see the Treasury from above if you pay to buy a drink (2 JOD) from the tent/shop – then you can enjoy the view as long as you want.

So calming - I could sit here all day, appreciating my surroundings and the moment I am in. 

Getting off Petra's main drag is so peaceful, especially after the hubbub from yesterday's crowds. All you hear is the wind howling and donkeys braying. This was the highlight of my visit to Petra, followed close behind by the back-entrance hike to the Monastery.

At the corner near our hotel is a bakery we visit 1-2 times each day (they know us now). You can get 3 huge round Egyptian breads for only .50 JOD / $0.70 USD

After dinner, at 8pm, we left for Petra by Night. I was lured by pictures of the Siq and Treasury lit by candlelight. 

The Siq lit up with lanterns during Petra by Night

The Treasury during Petra by Night

While I am glad we did 'Petra by Night', you can decide if it is the right thing for you. During the high season of December and January, it fills up with easily 1000 people, taking away all the ambience and leaving no room to appreciate the candlelight. Even worse, the tourists walk through it with their flashlights - completely defeating the effect of the candlelit lanterns. If you go, it is 17JOD (cash only), which is in addition to the day use fee.

Hotel Logistics: We are staying in 2 rooms at the Petra Plaza Hotel in Wadi Musa - the town that Petra is in. It has been a welcomed relief from our past 2 lodgings. The best part about it are the 2 helpful guys who run it. I highly recommend a stay here!

Golden Hour view of Wadi Musa from our  hotel room